Morris dancing tends to conjure up images of men of a certain age – wearing cricket whites, flower garlands, and bells on their ankles, usually waving swathes of fabric.
At least that’s what Alison Clements was expecting while living in Oxford, England, when she signed up for Morris dance lessons at a folk festival.
What she discovered was unlike any Morris dance she had ever seen before: Dancers in steampunk-style costumes, and make-up straight out of a Mad Max film, hitting one another with sticks and growling at spectators, while upbeat English folk tunes played in the background.
“I’d never seen anything like it – there were no hankies in sight!” Clements said.
“I thought, ‘this is fantastic!’.”
Clements, now based in Martinborough, is an experienced Morris dancer in the Border tradition – and the founder of Wairarapa’s brand new Morris dance troupe, Scallyrag Border Morris.
Scallyrag, which rehearses weekly in Greytown, specialises in the style commonly known as “the darker side of Morris dance”: Recognisable by its high-energy and aggressive choreography – usually involving sticks and flaming torches – and bold costumes incorporating feathered top hats, artfully tattered coats, and stark black and white makeup.
Border Morris, originating along the England-Wales border, is also open to both male and female performers – unlike its better-known, handkerchief-bearing cousin Cotswold Morris, which tends to be heavily male-dominated.
Clements has been involved with Border Morris since 2009 and was an active member of the Oxfordshire dance club Armaleggan, performing at pubs, festivals and market squares throughout the UK.
On moving to Wairarapa with her Kiwi husband, she was disappointed not to be able to find a local Morris dance club – so was determined to start her own.
After “sorting out a few logistics”, Scallyrag held its first meeting in early January, with a small but enthusiastic group – including a musician – learning some simple steps and discovering the cathartic power of wielding a stick to music.
Clements hoped Scallyrag would attract people interested to learn a less-expected style of dance – and may not have the confidence to try more traditional disciplines.
“Our tradition is a bit like if goths did Morris dancing. It’s even a little bit steampunk, or post-apocalyptic,” she said.
“So we’re hoping to attract people who don’t think they can dance – or that they can’t dance in a pretty way. In Border, there’s a lot of stomping – nothing dainty or elegant about it!
“We’re after farmers in Doc Martens – not ballerinas. And guys with beards and dreadlocks are absolutely welcome!
“It’s definitely the most fun thing I’ve ever done – and I’m excited to share that with others.”
The roots of the Morris dance, which is made up of various regional styles, are uncertain, though the dance appears in English literary texts as early as 1448.
The Border tradition was thought to originate amongst poorer communities, where workers would perform in the town square for extra money. Fearing being recognised, dancers would go to great lengths to disguise their appearance: Hiding behind tall hats, “turning their clothes inside out”, and smearing their faces with soot from the fireplace.
Clements said Morris dancing remained popular in England until the early 20th century, when entire communities, and likewise dance clubs, were decimated by World War I.
Cotswold Morris eventually experienced a massive revival – with its Border counterpart gaining more popularity into the 1970s, when it became apparent more women wanted to join.
Border Morris has become progressively more popular in the UK [about 25 per cent of Morris dance groups specialise in Border], particularly among the younger generation.
“Cotswold Morris has been thought of as an old man’s activity, so they’ve had a harder time bringing in younger dancers,” Clements said.
“Border Morris is more vibrant and edgy, so it attracts younger people – and is giving the scene a whole new life.”
The dance style is also now picking up steam around New Zealand, with clubs in Whangarei, Nelson, Christchurch, Geraldine, and Dunedin.
Though Scallyrag is still “learning the basics”, Clements is excited about potential future performances – and seeing the members discover “a new persona” through dressing up.
“When you put on the costumes and the makeup, I feel like a whole different person.
“I used to be quite a shy and retiring person before doing Border Morris. But there’s nothing like ‘grrr-ing’ at strangers in the middle of High St in Oxford to boost your confidence!
“It’s very cathartic. I don’t think there are many styles of dance when you randomly start yelling in the middle of a routine.”
As well as new dancers, Clements hopes to recruit a team of musicians to play at rehearsals and performances – including but not limited to violinists, melodeon players, and percussionists.
Scallyrag Border Morris rehearses on Tuesdays at 7pm at the Greytown Town Hall. For more information, email [email protected].
